There used to be an old bridge in my hometown of Suonenjoki, Finland called The bridge of Zion. It was a place where the churchgoers used to sing hymns. The bridge was dismantled long time ago and a new one was built. They still call it by the same name but it’s not the same bridge.
The Zion Canyon though has had many names depending on who inhabited it. Eventually the government decided that all the native American and Spanish names were too difficult to pronounce so they named the National Park, then National Monument, Zion.
I did not even know about this place before one of my colleagues visited it a year ago. I saw the pictures on the Facebook and as we had started planning this trip it was a natural stop right after Las Vegas. Of course Death Valley would have been even closer but we thought that this would not be our last trip to this area so Death Valley could wait. We left our daughter at the Las Vegas airport and the two of us started the serious business of visiting the rest of the 10 national parks we had in our plan.
Lonely Planet recommended a small B&B called Under the Eaves in Springdale and we had booked it well in advance as it was a very popular one and it was a very small town after all. The price included a breakfast in a nearby cafe. The room was very small and the floor was squeaky. However the host was very nice and the breakfast was huge. We left our luggage at arrival and went immediately to the park. We had booked one night in Springdale so we had basically 24 hours to visit the park. There is a free shuttle bus service from the town to the park so there is no need to take your car.
Minna had again planned everything in advance. the plan was to drive through the canyon, see the Narrows and either climb the Angel’s Landing trail or Observation Point Trail.
The first afternoon we took the shuttle bus to the end of the park through the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. The last stop was the Temple of Sinawawa. From there we took the Riverside Walk to the Narrows. The Narrows is a narrow part of the Virgin River in the canyon and you have to walk on the river bed as there is no trail by the river. The canyon is very deep there and there is not much sunlight in the afternoon which means it is also very refreshing to walk in the cool water.
We had also read about the Emerald Pools and the frogs living there. There was still some time before dark so we returned to the Grotto shuttle stop and climbed the easy Emerald Pool Trail to the Upper Emerald Pool. It was like an auditorium in the canyon and you could hear the croaking of frogs echoing from the walls. I don’t think we even saw any frogs but the sound they made was amazing. You can here the sound if you will watch the video in the end of this post.
We walked down from the Upper Emerald Pool to the Zion Lodge shuttle bus stop and took a bus to the village. I was dark already and we had not made any dinner reservations as we didn’t know when we would be back in Springdale. Many of the restaurants close at 9:00 pm but luckily Casa de Amigos was open until 10:00 pm. We still had a big decision to be made.
We had been watching videos from Youtube about the Angel’s Landing trail. We knew that people had fallen down from the trail and died. Even earlier this year a 13-year-old girl died when climbing the Angel’s Landing trail. Luckily another colleague of mine had visited Zion just a couple of weeks earlier and she recommended Observation Point. You could actually see the Angel’s Landing below Observation Point, there were less hikers and it was a safer but longer hike.
The recommendation is to leave as early as possible in the morning because in the afternoon Observation Point Trail has little shade from the sun. We had not managed to go grocery shopping in the evening as we barely managed to get dinner. So we bought some apples, water and sandwiches for the hike. We also had huge breakfast in the nearby cafe. This means that we didn’t really leave early. On the way up it wasn’t a problem but in the afternoon it got really hot when we came down the trail.
We took the shuttle bus to the Weeping Rock stop and started climbing. I was really difficult to estimate how long it would take because we didn’t even recognize our destination from the bottom of the valley. We just climbed without understanding to which of the peaks we were heading. At first the trail was zigzagging along the mountainside and we could see the bus stop below. We felt like we didn’t progress a lot. Then the trail went behind the mountain and it didn’t really make it feel any shorter. Of course I managed to follow the trail on my phone so I had an idea how many meters we had walked. The problem was that sometimes the phone lost GPS connection so it didn’t record accurately. The return trip was 12 kilometers and elevation gain 640 meters.
The view was really worth the climb. Observation Point has the best view to the valley and even the Angel’s Landing was way below it. We had some rest and then we started the descent. The return trip always feels shorter. However, this time the sun was against us. There was no shade and it became very hot in the afternoon. Lots of water and a hat is mandatory.
Zion National Park is an amazing place and the whole park is very well organized. We left Zion through the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway as we headed towards the Bryce Canyon National Park. We also had a very interesting experience when passing the Zion-Mount Carmel tunnel. There was only one lane open in the tunnel so they stopped all cars and let them go through in batches. Because we were the last car from our batch to get in, we got a kind of relay run baton from the ranger which we had to hand over when we got to the other end of the tunnel. This was an indication that we were the last ones to come through so another batch of cars could start coming through from the other end of the tunnel.
Distance from Zion to Bryce Canyon National Park: 193 km.
Here is a 6-minute video about the Narrows, Emerald Pools and Observation Point lookout.