Route 66 followed the Interstate 40 from Holbrook to Albuquerque. We had 460 km to go to Santa Fe and we had full day. The plan was to stay off the Interstate as much as possible and follow the remaining stretches of the Mother Road. Occasionally Route 66 would run along the Interstate on the north side and occasionally on the south. This stretch was full of Americana and we stopped at the abandoned motels and neon signs for a photo shoot. Google maps helped us find the short stretches of Route 66 nearby the Interstate.
We crossed New Mexico border and there was no Historic Route 66 until we reached Gallup. After Gallup we crossed the Continental Divide and took the Historic Route 66 from Gallup to Milan.
Gallup, Milan and Grants had some nice old motels and signs.
At Laguna, make sure that you take the second exit (Old Rt 66 rd) from the roundabout near 66 Pitstop and Laguna Burger. This will take you to the Dead Man’s Curve. Excellent photo opportunity if you manage to be there at the same time as the freight train.
We approached Albuquerque from the West but despite having binge watched the whole Breaking Bad series years after its original introduction we drove by to head for Santa Fe. But at Bernalillo LP Southwest USA’s Best Trips told us to take the scenic route. This led us to Jemez Springs and Los Alamos, the home of the Manhattan Project.
Try to spot the Adopt-A-Highway sign by ONE OF THEM LOS ALAMOS LIBERALS from the video.
Next stop Holbrook. One of the most famous Route 66 locations with its Wigwam Motel and neon lights. But before that, we wanted to follow Travis Walton’s footsteps and possibly get us both abducted. Travis Walton was working in the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest in 1975 and was abucted by the aliens. They examnined him thoroughly and returned him 5 days later. It was actually quite difficult to find the place where he was abducted or returned. Later I found some additional information about the phone booth where he was returned to. Apparently it is next to a Mexican restaurant. If I had known this, I would have certainly taken a picture. Now I just have a picture of the dead end close to the place he was abducted. There is a silver lining to the fact of not being abducted: we were not probed either.
If we had more time we certainly would have examined Mogollon Rim more carefully. The whole area with pine woods, cliffs and lakes deserves a second visit.
Holbrook, AZ is a fabulous example of the small towns along the old Mother Road, Route 66. It also hosts Petrified Forest National Park. We stayed in an airbnb called Bunkhouse which had been a bunkhouse for cowboys in the 40’s and 50’s. It was located in the backyard of the owners’ house and it was nicely decorated in the wild west style. It was one of the best accommodations we had on this trip.
Petrified Forest National Park was surprisingly diverse with Painted Desert including Painted Desert Inn (location of the movie starring Bette Davis), Historic Route 66 with its 1932 Studebaker, Blue Mesa and finally the petrified trees. It is quite amazing that the trees which are now petrified in Arizona were originally at the equator 225 million years ago.
Visiting Saguaro in the morning and driving from Tucson to Pinetop-Lakeside near Show Low in the afternoon didn’t leave too much time for sightseeing. We had a reservation in Nine Pines Motel, Not Your Ordinary Motel in Pinetop Lakeside and unfortunately knew that we wouldn’t have time to visit Show Low. I would have liked to see the place which was named after a sentence uttered in the middle of a poker game: ”If you can show low, you win.”.
This was copper country. Mine after mine. Our route planning was based on Lonely Planet Southwest USA’s Best Trips guide book. We checked which routes from this book overlapped partly with ours and tried to follow Lonely Planet’s recommendation. This was the reason we turned left from Winkelman. This way we would take the scenic route from Superior to Pinetop-Lakeside. So by accident we happened to see this guy moving gravel from the bottom of the hole to the top.
This route took us through Superior, via Top-of-the-World, to Miami. Wait, Miami? I thought Minna had done the biggest navigation mistake ever. How is it possible to drive north from Tucson and end up in Miami? Well, that’s exactly what we did. Miami, AZ is a mining town and we briefly visited the roadside shrine dedicated to victims of the Korean War. Conveniently in the same location we saw the leaderboard of the Arizona State 1995 Mining Championships.
At sunset we arrived at Globe and saw a photo opportunity at the worn Motel Villa pylon.
Then it became dark. We missed a scenic spot at Salt River Canyon but saw something strange. There was a man walking up the road in total darkness. There was no house, nor vehicle, nearby.
The motel reception had just closed when we arrived. We called the owner and he came to give us the keys. It was not only the motel which was closed, also all the dining establishments had closed and we had to drive around to find us burgers. Pinetop-Lakeside is a ski resort during winter and the season had just ended. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to explore the town but we felt that it would deserve a second visit. In the morning we had perfect breakfast at Darbi’s Cafe.
If I asked you to draw a cactus you would draw a saguaro. Saguaro National Park is split into two separate areas: east and west. We didn’t have time for both so we picked west because that’s what you pick when you don’t have much time.
To be honest we took quite a detour to spend half-a-day in Saguaro in the first place. It would have been much easier to take the old Route 66 from Kingman through Flagstaff to Petrified Forest National Park. But as this was one of the remaining National Parks of the southwest on our list, and there was the airplane boneyard on the way there, we couldn’t skip it.
So it is mostly about cacti. Lot’s of saguaros, which we hadn’t seen elsewhere, but also chollas and other types as well. The saguaro core looks very interesting. You can see a dried one in the bottom right corner of the following picture.
We met a man with his elderly mother on the trail and they asked us if this was our first visit to the national park. They also asked where we were from. When they found out that we were from Finland the mother said that when she was young her best friend was Finnish. What a coincidence. We also found sign which had been modified by an amateur geologist.
Saguaro was the third national park on this trip and quite simple to be honest. In the evening we took a 320 km drive to Pinetop-Lakeside. On the way there we stopped at the gate of Biosphere 2. The gate was closed already so we didn’t see the building itself. We were already a bit late so we had to hurry. At that time we didn’t know that we were about to enter a part of Arizona which would deserve more time for exploration.
I like blinking lights. It has been impossible for me to avoid Vegas on the last three trips to the west. What’s there to see then? Actually I don’t need to see anything more than the Strip or Fremont Street as they look awesome. I just want to follow how people look for eye candy or their fortune. There were still some must sees that we had to go to: The Volcano at Mirage and High Roller. High Roller was fun because we got the whole gondola for ourselves and once we were at the top the Fountains of Bellagio lit up.
This time we stayed two nights in The Venetian in northern part of The Strip. Now we have covered Fremont Street (Main Street Station), south (MGM Grand), middle (Planet Hollywood) and north. Venetian offers free gambling lessons so we took a craps lesson. I only learned the pass line bet which I kind of new beforehand already. We had plans to go to Boulder Highway for cheaper table games but ran out of time.
We also had dinner at Bacchanal but even seafood can be too much. Maybe next time we will spend the money for a real dinner. We spend the following two days driving to Tucson. 664 kilometers to go.
It was particularly cool day for Death Valley. The temperature didn’t even reach 100˚F. We entered Death Valley National Park through Hell’s Gate.
The next stop was Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes near Stovepipe Wells. Then we took a short and easy hike along Salt Creek where the small pupfish must swim upstream all their lives not to end up to the salt plains below.
Third stop was Zabrieskie Point which I remembered from the movie.
Then we headed off to the most spectacular view of the valley: Dante’s View. They recommend to come here early in the morning but then you would need to stay overnight in the park.
We drove back to the bottom of the valley and took Artist’s Drive loop. The first stop which looked a bit like the famous Artist’s Palette wasn’t really the right one. So we kept on driving and finally found the colourful formation which really looks like a palette. Possibly even more at sunset. We were there in the afternoon so I have used a lot of Photoshop here to emphasize the colours.
The final stop of our Death Valley tour was Badwater Basin, the lowest point in USA: 86 meters below sea level. We had never been so deep before. If you turn your back to the valley you can see the sea level 86 meters above you on the rock wall. The hike to the place where the salt has created interesting figures in the bottom of the valley is about 1,6 km long.
Although we had missed our flights, there was no delay in our program. Originally we had planned to stay at SLC for the first night but now we just stayed at SFO. The actual trip would begin the next morning anyway. I expected to have Ford Edge waiting for me at Avis counter at SLC, instead there was GMC Yukon Denali. Fair enough, it has higher clearance and 4*4 so it was acceptable.
Minna had been an exchange student here in 1985 so we took a quick tour around city center and drove off to Park City, the home of 2002 Winter Olympics and Sundance film festival. Very cosy ski resort but I cannot even imagine how much would a ski holiday cost here. Drunken Chicken sandwich in The Spur and then towards Eureka and our second night accommodation in Tintic Gold Miners B&B.
Guess where we are: Water costs more than a soda here. We decided to come back because we didn’t even visit all national parks of the southwest a year ago.
Finnair has direct flights to LA and San Francisco. We booked return flights to SFO with 500€+90€ for the luggage. Apparently some people travel to USA without luggage as Finnair basic economy tickets do not have luggage anymore. I hate the way they charge you nowadays. In US there are airlines which charge extra for the overhead bins. However we didn’t want to start driving from San Francisco so we also bought tickets from United from SFO to Salt Lake City with 2-hour transfer. What were we thinking? Needless to say we missed our flight from SFO to Salt Lake City because half of the passengers of Finnair got SSSS on their boarding passes, including myself. So half of the passengers had extra screening at the gate and most of the people had not noticed that boarding will start 1.5 hours before departure. So the plane left from Helsinki 30 minutes late. If it had left on time, we would have made it to Salt Lake City. We had given up hope and thought that our non-transferable cheap-ass tickets would be worthless but then a miracle happened: The agent at the United counter changed our tickets for the following morning without extra charge.
So we had to stay at SFO for the night and fly to SLC the next morning. We booked the cheapest hotel we could find which had airport shuttle service. With 92€ we got a room from Travelodge which had received 97 Excellent reviews in Tripadvisor. It seemed to be very popular among Mexican construction workers. I wouldn’t like to fly the airline which sent his pilot there though. There was a pilot in the shuttle who also jumped off at our hotel.
The room was actually cleaner than we had expected and the beds were comfy as well.
This was an amazing trip. We’ve both been to US numerous times and for us driving has always been part of the experience. In 1994 we drove from Boston to Niagara Falls and back. Later we spent many vacations driving around Florida and now recently on the west coast. We had been to Everglades in Florida but we never planned visiting national parks unless they were en route. This all changed when we visited Yosemite in April 2017.
In Yosemite National Park Visitors Center Minna laid her hands on a booklet: Travel Stamps U.S. National Park Series Album & Guide. It is a book in which you can collect a stamp (or actually a sticker) from each National Park of the U.S. We bought our first sticker from Yosemite.
You can buy stickers from National Park visitors centers but you can also order them online. We pasted the Yosemite sticker in the book but it looked very empty so we ordered the Everglades sticker from the supplier. It still looked very empty. We had been planning Route 66 trip to celebrate our 50th birthdays. We started having doubts about driving through midwest so we started plan B. What if we tried to collect as many stickers as we can during three weeks?
We started investigating the map and we found out that there were several national parks in the west which were very close to each other: Zion and Bryce Canyon, Canyonlands and Arches. We realized quickly that we could visit 10 national parks quite easily. Sequoia, Kings Canyon and Channel Islands were not in the original plan. We calculated the distances and noticed that it would be possible to see 8 parks quite conveniently. After Grand Canyon, which was supposed to be the last park, we had 5 more nights to go. In five days we would still have time to visit Sequoia and Kings Canyon or stay around Los Angeles. We had been to LA before so it would be a shame to skip the parks as it would also require another visit in that region. The map below shows that Ventura was really between Kings Canyon and LA so it would have been silly to skip it.
What did we learn then? The Americans don’t, usually, build national parks to boring spots. Zion was amazing, Canyonlands had the vastest vistas, Joshua Tree was exactly the way the hippies saw it in the 70’s. To be honest why would you travel to Europe when you have such amazing sights in your own country?
We also learned to understand a little bit of the concept of Manifest Destiny. Driving through the desert gave us a glimpse of the hardships the pioneers must have faced. The Finnish concept of ”sisu” is not unique. People who crossed the desert in their wagons with all of their possessions with them did certainly have ”sisu” too.
We had one night left and we spent it in Hollywood. We found an affordable, very clean and nicely located hotel just a couple of blocks from Hollywood Boulevard: Hotel Lexen. There is another one in North Hollywood and we drove there first by accident.
Here is a 30-minute-video of the whole trip with some nice timelapses:
We ended up driving to Ventura. My 50th birthday was approaching and there was one more National Park nearby: Channel Islands. Unfortunately America the Beautiful pass didn’t give free access to this one. The visitor center is on the mainland in Ventura and another one in Santa Barbara. There is a private company Island Packers providing boat transportation to the island. The weather was cloudy and we were worried it would rain. We booked the trip when we arrived at Ventura and took the boat next morning. A round trip takes approximately half-a-day. The boat was full of noisy school kids but there is plenty of space on the island. Dolphins played in the wake and it was very exciting to see them follow the wake of the boat. The boat landed at Scorpion Harbor on Santa Cruz Island.
Channel Islands National Park is very different from the other parks we visited. We took a 7 kilometer hike from Scorpion Harbor to Potato Harbor. The vegetation on the island was mainly grass. The most interesting natural wonder on the island is the island fox. It was impossible to be missed as there were plenty of them.
The park itself was a bit of a disappointment after Zion, Grand Canyon and the rest. Even Capitol Reef made a bigger impression. I have to admit that the weather had also something to do with it. Cloudy sky really didn’t bring the best out of the park.